April 30, 2010 - Château Beynac and Château des Millandes

It rained last night. We had breakfast and decided we better choose an indoor activity today so near 10:00 AM we set off for nearby Château Beynac. The town is just past La Roque Gageac and then we followed signs to château parking . . . taking us far out into the country and then back up and toward the cliff-top château. There were only two or three cars in the parking lot so we drove to the end and got the place nearest the castle.

Beynac-et-Cazenac in the Dordogne

Beynac-et-Cazenac in the Dordogne

Parking lot above Beynac-et-Cazenac in the Dordogne with a small borie

Château de Beynac

We paid and entered. There were only a few other families so we could take our time and explore freely. The restoration is a work in progress but much is open and if you climb up to the guard house and terrace, the views of surrounding countryside with multiple castles and the gorgeous Dordogne River are spectacular. The château has been used in several movies and is very impressive. It rained ever so lightly and as we left, a fog rolled in. I was glad we started early so I could get view photos. As we departed, the first tour group du jour arrived . . . in fog. [Château Beynac, Route du château, 24220 Beynac-et-Cazenac; tel: +33 (0)5 5329-5040; Click here for the Château Beynac web site]

We drove down into Beynac . . . a much shorter drive than up . . . and explored the picturesque village while checking restaurant menus. We finally settled on the Hotel Pontet-Hostellerie Maleville right on the river. We were drawn in by the rabbit in mustard sauce on the outdoor menu. However, when we ordered it, we were told it was a special for local workmen. We persuaded the waiter to serve us the workman's lunch because we really wanted to try the rabbit in mustard sauce as it was a favorite. It was served with some greens and pommes sarladaises . . . really delicious. We had started with the walnut aperitif, had a Bergerac wine and excellent apple tart and my coffee . . . all for 40 euros for both of us. Amazing! [Hostellerie Maleville, 24220 Beynac et Cazenac, Dordogne - Périgord FRANCE, +33 (0)5 5329-5006, Fax: +33 (0)5 5328-2852; [email protected], Click here for the Hostellerie Maleville web site]

Château de Beynac - entrance

Château de Beynac

Château de Beynac - view from the terrace

Château de Beynac - the church (now the village church)

Château de Beynac

Château de Beynac - interior

Château de Beynac - intnerior

Château de Beynac - Salle des Etats (15th century decoration)

Château de Beynac - interior (17th century decoration)

Château de Beynac - looking down on the little church

Château de Beynac - view from the castle

Château de Beynac - view from the castle

Château de Beynac - Ed and me posing at the guard tower

Château de Beynac - interior (17th century decoration)

Beynac-et-Cazenac - exiting the Château

Beynac-et-Cazenac - upper village

Beynac-et-Cazenac - shop sign

Beynac-et-Cazenac

Beynac-et-Cazenac - street light

Beynac-et-Cazenac - a gabare waiting to go out on a tour

Beynac-et-Cazenac - walking through the Plus Beau Village

Beynac-et-Cazenac - lower village along the Dordogne River

After lunch we drove to Château des Millandes, the former home of chanteuse Josephine Baker and now a memorial to her. It was interesting (no photos allowed) and we bought a small DVD with seventy photos on it. Afterwards we visited the aviary and then sat down to await the raptor show. Right on schedule (3:00 PM) the falconer arrived with a kestrel and started the show. It was all in French and I didn't even try to understand because the birds were utterly fascinating and didn't require narration. The falconer obviously loved his feathered friends and the doting ferret that assisted him. He gave his glove to several children and let them hold the birds. It was a magical show that transcended language. [Château des Millandes, 24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle; tel: +33 (0)5 5359-3121; Click here for the Château des Millandes web site]

Château des Milandes - first approach

Château des Milandes - Chapel

Château des Milandes - Entrance

Château des Milandes - walking to the raptor show

Château des Milandes - a magnificent friend

Château des Milandes - the raptor show

Château des Milandes - Falconer

Château des Milandes - Falconer with captured mechanical rabbit

Château des Milandes - owl in flight

Château des Milandes - owl in flight

Château des Milandes - owl

Château des Milandes - owl

Château des Milandes - a Ural owl

Château des Milandes - Falconer and one of the owls

Château des Milandes - Falcon

Château des Milandes - falconer talking to visitors

We drove back to La Roque to explore the pretty village a little and to say farewell to Sylvia at her store. We discovered they had a break-in at their house yesterday while we were in Brantôme. The police seem to have caught the thieves but her girls are traumatized . . . understandably. We chatted a while, bought a few supplies and said goodbye. They are a lovely family and we'll miss them . . . but tomorrow we head for Homps, Carcassonne and new adventures.

Poppies along the road home

La-Roque-Gageac

La-Roque-Gageac - troglodyte ruins

La-Roque-Gageac - door knocker

La-Roque-Gageac - stained glass windows in the church

La-Roque-Gageac - city hall

La-Roque-Gageac - Le Manoir de Tardes

La-Roque-Gageac - doorway