May 3, 2010 - Lagrasse with Abbaye Sainte Marie d’Orbieu

Up early to attempt the sideless, tubless open shower on an upraised flat pedestal, guaranteed to flood . . . very nice mosaic though. We both had very cold showers on a very cool day and flooded the bathroom floor . . . predictably. Ed had mopped up the flood with an extra towel Jane gave us to mop up the floods, and as he went to hang the soggy towel out to dry, our less-than-helpful landlady started hanging her laundry using (in addition to her own) two of our three clothespins. I cheerily went out, took back our two pins and pinned up the towel. Then I asked if there was any possibility of a little warm water. She feigned horror that she’d forgotten to turn on the water heater and rectified the situation. We later noted she took our wet dirty towel in with her clean laundry. Now we have no mop towel . . . and sincerely doubt the cleanliness of everything.

Ed opened his birthday card and gift and we ate breakfast. No sun so we decided to save Minerve for another day. We found the D611 to Lagrasse, one of the Plus Beaux Villages of France. We arrived with no problem and found easy free parking so set off on foot to see the town. The signs are very pale on clear lucite but once we found them, it was an easy walk through town, across an ancient hump-back bridge to the Abbaye Sainte Marie d’Orbieu. The newer part is not open yet, but the partly renovated older part was open and we wandered through it. There was also a short film only in French but we enjoyed the pictures and understood part of it. As we exited through the gift shop, we checked it out pretty thoroughly because we’ve been looking for a First Communion gift for Piper. We found some lovely crosses of silver and silver plated with 18 carat gold that were on a gold chain. We got the gold-plated ones because she won’t have to polish it to keep it attractive. It will be the perfect gift and from a 1200 year old abbey.

Lagrasse - village map

Lagrasse - the main street

Lagrasse - the Market Square

Lagrasse - Fountain-drain at the Market Square

Lagrasse - charming street

Lagrasse - along the river

Lagrasse - the Orbieu River and new bridge

Lagrasse - the Orbieu River and the medieval bridge

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the modern Maurist section entrance

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the modern Maurist section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the modern Maurist section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the medieval section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the medieval section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the medieval section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the medieval section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the medieval section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - view from the Abbey door

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse - the medieval section

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - window

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - view towards the village

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - courtyard balcony

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - chapel

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - fireplace

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - windows

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - the river side

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu - poppies by the parking

After the abbey we walked through the town looking for a restaurant open on Monday. Everything we found was closed so we stopped at the local tourist office to ask for recommendations. They suggested a couple places that we already knew were closed so we left and stopped in the amazing church of Saint Michel beside the tourist office. It was built between 1359 and 1398 so isn’t as old as parts of the abbey that date back to the 11th century. It is, however, well cared for and beautiful whilst the abbey is in the midst of restoration. We were enchanted, especially with the frescoes and paintings.

Lagrasse - the hump-backed bridge over the Orbieu River

Lagrasse - window with flowers

Lagrasse

Lagrasse - Plus Beaux Villages always have flowers

Abbaye Sainte-Marie d’Orbieu at Lagrasse across the river

Église Saint-Michel de Lagrasse

Église Saint-Michel de Lagrasse

Église Saint-Michel de Lagrasse - organ

Église Saint-Michel de Lagrasse - local marble

Église Saint-Michel de Lagrasse

There was only one restaurant open in town and Ed wasn’t excited about it so we got the car and started our lunch search. Towns are few, small and far between and we drove through a couple with no luck. We decided to head back to Homps and keep our eyes open on the way. Our luck changed at Fabrezan where we followed signs to Les Calicots with nearby parking. They were open and although we hadn’t much choice, had a 12 euro and a 13.50 euro menu. Looked great to us!

Ed got the 12 euro menu with salmon and I got the 13.50 euro menu with brochettes of duck breast. It arrived on a huge square plate with a great rotini vinaigrette, lentils with curry dressing, a green salad and terrific frites. It was all cooked to perfection. Great meal in a charming setting. [Les Calicots, 17 rue du Commerce, 11200 Fabrezan, +33 (0)4 6849-1854, Click here for Les Calicots Restaurant web site]

Driving from Lagrasse to Fabrezan

Fabrezan

Fabrezan - Les Calicots Restaurant

Fabrezan - Les Calicots Restaurant

Fabrezan

We left and fought our way through Lézignan-Corbières where the main road was closed and no detour marked. It is nasty and we ended up driving narrow lonely roads through beautiful wine country. Got home, left our things at the house and walked the path along the Canal du Midi into Homps. I took canal pics and we got bread for dinner tonight. It’s a lovely walk.

Driving from Fabrezan to Homps

Homps - the Canal du Midi

Homps - the Canal du Midi

Homps - the Canal du Midi

Homps - ducks on the Canal du Midi

Homps - Auberge de l’Arboussier on the Canal du Midi

Homps - the Canal du Midi

Checked e-mail as Jane, our noisy landlady, yelled at the cats . . . presumably for their dinner. Next, her phone rang and she decided to pace back and forth right behind me talking loudly on the phone . . . about a colleague she didn’t like because the woman yelled, shrieked and was loud. People who live in glass houses . . . I can't imagine anyone being louder than dear Jane.