May 8, 2010 - Exploring the Minervois wine region

Great last day in Homps. It was Saturday and V.E. Day in Europe. We left early, drove south across the Aude river then turned toward Tourouzelle. No parking so we drove on to a tiny church in the middle of a vineyard, Ste. Cécile. We stopped and took photos but couldn’t get in so drove on to Castelnau-d’Aude where we parked and walked up to the church . . . that was also locked.

Castelnau-d'Aude - Église Saint-Vincent de Castelnau-d'Aude bell tower

Castelnau-d'Aude - stairway

Field of poppies near Castelnau-d'Aude

We drove on to Roquecourbe-Minervois, parked and tried to find the church. We found it . . . closed . . . and noted an open gate into a château courtyard. I took a few pictures of flowers on the tower and a lady with two teenage girls arrived, parked and saw me taking photos. She said there were beautiful views of the river from the château garden and invited us in. She was right; the garden and river view was wonderful. I took a lot of photos and we left. As an update in 2022, they are now encouraging visitors and charging a small fee but the garden is worth it. [Château de Roquecourbe-Minervois; 2 Place du Château, 11700 Roquecourbe-Minervois; tel: +33 (0)4 6843-7385; Click here for the Château web site]

Roquecourbe-Minervois - Église Saint-Michel de Roquecourbe-Minervois at the Château

Château Roquecourbe-Minervois - Flowers

Château Roquecourbe-Minervois - the Aude River from the garden

Château Roquecourbe-Minervois - the garden by the Aude River

Château Roquecourbe-Minervois - the garden by the Aude River

Château Roquecourbe-Minervois - from the garden

Château Roquecourbe-Minervois - Flowers

Our next goal was St. Hilaire that we had been unable to find many years ago. No problem today. We zipped around Carcassonne and on to St. Hilaire. We were looking at a menu outside and a man came out and said a new daily special menu was going up at noon and he told us what it was. Sounded good so we said we’d be back at noon. We walked up to the abbey (L’Abbaye de Saint Hilaire) as they were locking up for lunch. The young man cheerfully reopened and sold us tickets. He proceeded to give us a guided tour in excellent English. He showed us into the monks’ refectory where there was an exhibit of local Cathar sites by Jean-Luc Verchere, and then went out and told M. Verchere we liked his photos (I was shooting the Abbey, not the exhibit) so the photographer came in and went through his show with us. We finally had to break for lunch but what a great experience. [L’Abbaye de Saint Hilaire, n4 rue de la Mairie, 11250 Saint-Hilaire; +33 (0)4 6869-6276; Click here for the Abbey web site]

Carcassonne seen as we drove from Château Roquecourbe-Minervois to Saint Hilaire on the D6161

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - seen as you drive into Saint-Hilaire across the Lauquet River

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Cloisters

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Carvings on the altar are by the Master of Cabestany

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Carvings by the Master of Cabestany

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Carvings on the altar are by the Master of Cabestany

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - the Pulpit

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Stained Glass

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Photo Exhibit

We walked back to Le Clos Hilaire for lunch. For 15 euros (each) Ed had salmon bruschetta and a small salad. I had the farm salad with bacon, eggs, croutons, greens, tomatoes, Roquefort cheese and great dressing. We both had a café brûlée with a chocolate cake. Wine was included; Ed had rosé and I had red, both excellent. Coffee was not included but we had time so I ordered it extra. When the bill came (l’addition), they didn’t charge for the coffee even though we pointed it out. Our young waiter was probably the owner’s son. He was quite intimidated by two Americans who struggle with French, but his mother came over and told him to speak slowly and we would all be fine. She was right. He spoke slowly; we spoke slowly and we all understood each other. Nice, elegant, friendly . . . the chef even came out and talked to us . . . excellent food. Great experience! [Le Clos St.-Hilaire, 5 ave. de Carcassonne, 11250 St.Hilaire, but unfortunately the restaurant is now closed]

It wasn’t quite the two o’clock abbey reopening time so we decided to walk around the ramparts before returning. Following a lovely walk through the picturesque village, we got to the abbey just as it opened and our morning guide was waiting for us to continue our tour. Our guide cheerfully told us the story of sparkling wine that is billed as "the first sparkling wine in the world." Wine historians seem to agree that sparkling wines did appear here before the Champagne region and local lore suggests that Dom Pérignon learned how to produce sparkling white wine while serving in this abbey before absconding with the recipe and moving to the Champagne region and popularizing the drink; however, this is almost certainly not true since Dom Pérignon was involved with improving Champagne's still wines and not the sparkling ones. It would be a fun subject to research. We just enjoy the wine. Blanquette de Limoux and Crémant de Limoux are wonderful sparkling wines and cost far less than most good Champagnes. We finished the tour and set off for Caunes-Minervois, stopping just south of Carcassonne to take wide-angle photos of La Cité.

Saint-Hilaire - the Abbey

Saint-Hilaire - a beautiful French car

Saint-Hilaire - local scenery

Saint-Hilaire - a sun dial

Saint-Hilaire - Iris blooming in town

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Abbots lodgings

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Abbots lodgings

Ed and our Guide in the Abbey cave

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Photo Exhibit

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Stained Glass

Abbaye de Saint-Hilaire - Crucifix

Carcassonne - Notice the snow still on the Mountains behind Carcassonne - It was May in southern France.

Arrived in Caunes-Minervois too early for church so we parked and walked down to “our” restaurant. It was warm enough to sit outside and we ordered two blanquettes in the name of research. It tasted just like champagne to us and we each had two as we watched all the village come and go at this busy restaurant.

Near six o’clock we walked to the abbey that blessedly used very good recorded music. After church, we drove back home, sat out by the canal at Auberge l’Arbousier for a while and then came in to get ready for our trip tomorrow moving to Canet-Plage.

It has finally warmed; sun is out and snow is nearly gone..

Caunes-Minervois - one of the windows

Caunes-Minervois - one of the windows

Caunes-Minervois - I'm Petting a bear - fortunately a stone bear

Caunes-Minervois - I'm Petting another bear statue

Caunes-Minervois - Amazing shadow of a pollarded tree